Friday, December 12, 2008

goodbye angkor wat

Title: Siem Reap Last Episode
Starring: Sylviaorange, Lucyriver and Wee

Camera: Lucyriver and Sylviaorange

Director: Lucyriver

Our tuk tuk which has been working hard in ferrying us around Siem Reap.

Our tuk tuk driver, Pilot.

Siem Reap worth all the sore, blisters and sunburn. After returning home, the images of the temples will be lingering in mind. Plus, after reading the book of Ancient Angkor, Lucyriver realize that there are things that we had missed and overlooked. The next time we are to be there, Lucyriver promise that there will be no camera. Just the heart of wanting to savour the whole magnificent temple city with eyes.

On the other hand, seeing some of the poverty especially of young children having to work to support their life and family really tears your heart out. The thought of not being able to go to school is unbearable. Hopefully in coming time, Cambodia would become a much better place.

All the time we were in Siem Reap, we met all kind of people. Perhaps due to differences in culture and understanding of context, we get to experience some amusing performances of the locals and even the foreigners as well.

If it's something heart-fluttering, we keep it in our heart.

If it's something heart-clenching, we throw it far away and forget it.

Goodbye , Angkor Wat. We hope you will stand strong to meet us again.

Thursday, December 11, 2008

siem reap day 4

Title: Siem Reap Episode Four
Starring: Sylviaorange, Lucyriver and Wee

Camera: Lucyriver and Sylviaorange

Director: Lucyriver

The picture that you are viewing now is sunrise in Srah Srang. Yes, we made it to see the sunrise in Srah Srang due to our persistent in engaging Pilot to bring us there.

We were a little sceptical that Pilot might not show up as when we wanted to inform him yesterday, he had gone home and we just left a message for him through the guesthouse.

However, when we stepped out in the darkness, there he was waiting for us with his tuk tuk. We were rather 'pai sei' in 'forcing' him to bring us to see sunrise. Nevertheless, he was still all smiles when he saw us.

There were not many people at Srah Srang compared to Angkor Wat. We were sitting at the platform waiting for the sun to emerge. And it looked like we were not the early one as there were already children there vendoring their goods.

A little girl with a bit curly hair, speaking good English, approached us, trying to persuade us to buy from her. We just kept quiet. But Lucyriver couldn't help smiling to her. She was a real stubborn thing, pestering us to reveal our origin.

Then, she told us we wouldn't be able to see sunrise from where we were sitting now as it was blocked by trees at the platform.
It enlightened us that we were focusing at the wrong direction. The sun was supposed to rise from the left of the lake. We quickly moved away to a more strategic place.

As the sun was coming out soon, we had totally forgotten about the girl. We were standing at the platform ready with our camera when suddenly the girl was beside Lucyriver and without warning she hooked a bracelet to Lucyriver thumb, saying it was for Lucyriver.

We tried to return it, saying that we will not buy anything from her but she refused to take it back, saying that the bracelet is for good luck, she still has more of them. Gosh, fainted. She even said if Lucyriver returned it that means Lucyriver do not like her. Double fainted.

Although blocked by trees, the sunrise was still awe-inspiring. When the sun casted its light on the water, the lake was bathed in golden colours.

The 'good luck' bracelet.

We left Srah Srang happily with our sunrise photos. Pilot suggested that we visit the four nearby small temples before going back to the guesthouse for breakfast. Along the way, we stopped at food stalls at the roadside to buy some local food.

This is banana rolled in rice, wrapped in banana leaves and grilled over the charcoal - like pulut or panggang. It tasted just good - thanks to we were hungry at that time.

We ate our banana rice at East Mebon. It was still too early therefore nobody was in sight except us. We had the temple-mountain all to ourselves.

The same lalangs from Pre Rup also grow there, swaying softly in the morning breeze. The matured lalangs are clothed in deep purple while the young ones in green.
Sprouting out of the sand.

Our second temple is Ta Som. Pilot especially reminded us to walk till the end to the east gate(gopura) to see a tree. As we walked out of the gopura, there isn't any special thing, we mused to ourselves. Only when we turned back to look at the gopura, that our breath were taken away. A huge tree growing from the top of it, claiming the gopura as his.


Our third temple is Neak Pean. It is a totally different temple compared to the temples that we had visited.

The first thing that caught our eyes was the temple in the middle of the pool. Plus, the horse statue, Balaha (info from a guidebook) saving drowning sailors.


Our last temple for this morning is Preah Khan. We crossed a moat flanked by stupas. Not forgetting the lotus ponds on both sides. Standing at the entrance was a headless figure the size of a giant human.




On the way back, we passed by Bayon. Pilot stopped at the roadside to let sylviaorange capture this stunning corner view.

The bamboo rice with read beans and grilled banana. The rice is normal meanwhile the banana is like chewing an eraser.

After breakfast we went to the Old Market to purchase some souvenirs. In the building, there are stalls selling all kinds of decorated souvenirs, jewelleries, clothes, silks and etc. We bought some scarves and magnets.

The wet market is just beside the souvenir stalls, selling dried/processed fish, sausages and dried goods. Deeper into the building are vegetables, delicacies and other grocery stuffs. We saw some sweets and biscuits but unable to buy them as some sellers do not speak English.

We went back to the guesthouse to get ready for our final temple at 1500.

Angkor Wat is totally different in the morning and evening. In the evening, we saw a clearer massive temple. Finally, we had the chance to explore her inside. We had to race with other tourists crossing the moat leading to the temple.

Angkor Wat became more real and massive as we approached her nearer and nearer until we couldn't believe we were really standing in front of her.

This boy did a dance after he touched Lucyriver Mickey umbrella.

Angkor Wat houses about 2000 apsaras (the dancing celestials) in every corner. We had the mission of finding the only one, the smiling apsara who is showing her teeth.

Every
apsara that we met on the wall was unique in its own. She could be solo, on her own, or two best friends clutching each other hands or a group of best friends with different poses, expressions and even hairstyles.

Just the
apsaras were enough to get us hooked for the first hour of the visit. It's just too pity we didn't get to meet the smiling one.

Unfortunately, the towers were closed for restoration and we couldn't make it to the top. What a great view from the top that we had missed.

This monkey will pose for anyone as long as you have a camera with you.

We later proceeded to the gallery of stories on the wall(the bas-reliefs) of the four walls. A non-crossing line was there so it allows only seeing, no touching. But don't just look at the wall, look up to the ceiling too.

Each wall has its own stories. Therefore if you are not planning to hire a guide to explain to you, then do research online and read first about the galleries, which lucyriver had not done and regretted. Luckily, sylviaorange and wee did know what the stories are all about. We weren't really that clueless. Even if we were clueless, we still could make up our own stories of it.

The east gallery 'The Churning of the Milky Sea' was closed for restoration. Instead a banner of the reliefs was splayed across outside the wall. Well, a 2D view is better than no view.

From left; chicken pancake, fried prawn and fried spring rolls.

Wednesday, December 10, 2008

siem reap day 3

Title: Siem Reap Episode Three
Starring: Sylviaorange, Lucyriver and Wee
Camera: Lucyriver and Sylviaorange
Director: Lucyriver

Just like yesterday we woke up at 0500 to watch sunrise at Angkor Wat. It was truly cold in the tuk tuk. All the way to the temple, there were other tuk tuks racing with us as well to the same destination.

We were hoping that the sun was kind enough to greet us a morning today after his refusal to meet us yesterday. As usual, we marked a strategic spot to the left of the lotus pond so that the five 'corns' would be visible from that point of view.


Reflection of the Angkor Wat on the lotus pond, a city underwater.

Breaking the morning was a woman scooping pail of water from the pond.

A girl sketching the majestic temple onto her modest canvas.


The awaken lotus in the peaceful morning.

Baby lotus swaying to the far away Angkor Wat.

Sylviaorange aiming a shot of the baby lotus above.

The sun was still stubbornly hiding behind the thick cloud. Too bad, we couldn't manage to get an Angkor Wat sunrise though twice the try. Perhaps, it wanted us to come back again?

A pair of horses teasing each other at the field in front of the temple.



Bicycle is a very common mean of transport here. We saw tourists riding bicycles to visit the temples. Some motorcycles have no licence plate. We were told that they have applied for it but the process took a long time. Occasionally, we could see three of four persons riding a motorcycle. Helmets are only worn when going into the town area.

The french bread stall in front of the road to our guesthouse. It was there every morning we passed by. Too bad we didn't get the initiation of tasting the bread that sandwiches some kind of meat and veggies. Something like 'roti john'. We just stared at the stall cabinet of the stacks of french bread each time we passed by. None of the three of us voiced out that we wanted to have a taste. Now Lucyriver am left with the wonder what it could have taste like.

The path leading to the guesthouse on the left.

Pretty Cambodian ladies in front of the guesthouse getting ready for an outing.

The beautifully decorated outdoor where we have our breakfast.

Bread with cheese.

Break with omelette.

'Kidnapping' the princess of the guesthouse to have a shot with. She started to cry after that. We had no choice but to release her without able to demand any ransom.

After breakfast, Pilot brought us to Angkor Thom, the five entrance gates - east, south, west, north abd victory gate - each crowned by the four giant faces. Angkor Thom is like a big city which houses the Bayon, Baphuon, Phimeanakas, the Terraces and etc.

Lining the walkway to the south gate are the asuras(demon) on the right (picture above) and the gods on the left (picture below). A river flows beneath it. Pilot let us off there and waited for us inside the gate.



The feet of the asuras.

The moat on the right of the south gate....

and the left.

It was packed with tourists in the morning. Don't even think of taking a picture with just YOU in it unless you come in the late morning. Vehicles like car and van were also passing the south gate. Besides being careful of the vehicles, we also watched out for the elephants ridden by tourists entering the Angkor Thom.

The four giant faces of the south gate.

After entering Angkor Thom, we went for the Bayon, the temples of smiling faces. The faces are believed to be the faces of either Buddha or Jayarvarman VII or perhaps both. Or perhaps shall we say that the faces are Bayons? It needed a bit climbing to go up to the top. Everywhere we turned, it is the massive faces smiling down on us. Bayon is definitly amazing and different.





The hollow Bayons.

Now, this is the must have picture - kissing the Bayon.



Finding a perfect Bayon to kiss is also an headache as the most popular and ideal one is always full in the waiting line. So got to settle for others. Therefore, we scouted around for other Bayons to kiss. It was not easy to find a perfect Bayon, as well as the right angle and the right light.

Stepping down from the Bayon, we headed over to Baphuon, which we just walked till the entrance as it was closed for restoration.



We moved on passing the Phimeneakas and cornering the Terrace of the Elephants and the Terrace of the Leper Kings. The carvings on the Terrace of the Leper Kings were so impressive no matter the inner wall or the outer wall. It is almost like a three-tier carvings where the figures are living in a three-storey house. When we walked along the wall, it seemed like the figure would jump out anytime. They are too real, more than just a carving on the stones.




All the places mentioned above are just within a walking distance.

The Prasats Suor Prat as seen from the Terraces.

Loads of vehicles and tuk tuk under the tree waiting.


Ta Keo is a climbing mountain. It is almost a 90 degrees climbing. We felt nothing when we climbed up. It was when we wanted to come down. One look to the ground from above of the stairs is enough to turn Lucyriver legs into jelly. It didn't look that high when we came up just now. Looking up from downstairs and looking down from upstairs is two different perspectives. As the result, we hunted around for stairs that we considered safe enough for us to get down in one piece.



We bought this colourful hanging ornaments from the girl, USD 2.

After lunch, we continue to Ta Prohm, the filming location of the 'Tomb Raider'. The distintive landmark of Ta Prohm is the giant trees (either the cotton-silk tree or the strangler fig tree) intermingle with the temple as one.

Rising to touch the sky.

Weezilla running wild in the forest.







Opposite the temple, across the road is Srah Srang. We found that Pilot was resting so we sneaked over there quietly since the time was still early to go to Pre-Rup.

Upon stepping up to the platform of the supposed to be 'royal bath', it was guarded by two lions. Stepping down from the platform to the edge of the water, there were the nagas (serpent like creatures). We took a rest by sitting at the edge of the lake taking in the afternoon scenery. Occasionally, voices of children persuading tourists to buy souvenirs could be heard from the food stalls.

We were sitting at the lake and when Lucyriver turned to left, this Cambodian dog was suddenly there.

We were almost dozing off in the cool breeze of the lake when we noticed that Pilot was looking for us. Perhaps he was worried that we were lost in Ta Phrom since we had broken our record staying for quite a long time in one temple.

Previously when we told him that we needed only an hour to cover the Bayon things, he was like very, very surprised. He might be thinking that we were running around the temples. Then he told us we needed at least two hours for that. What were we thinking at that time, Lucyriver wonder.


Pilot said we could make it to Banteay Samre if we move now. We were so jubilant as we thought we wouldn't be able to cover it anymore.

Bamteay Samre is like a very very old modern monastery. It required a bit of climbing though after going up the first stairs you could reach the buildings behind by just going around the edges of the temple inside. We climbed the stairs first and then discovered about it.




A linga for worship in the temple.

It was still early when we reached Pre-Rup. Pilot dropped us at the east entrance and said he would meet us at the west. The moment we reached the top, our butts were dying to kiss the stairs. From where we sat, we could even see Pilot down there, relaxing himself in his tuk tuk. He too discovered us, hahaha.

The lalang in Pre Rup. From faraway, the lalangs looked like hair of the temple.

It wasn't long before people started to come up. We quickly booked ourselves a strategic spot at the stairs facing the west. Half an hour more before the sunrise. We whipped out Mickey umbrella to shade from the sun. Children were also climbing up the stairs to sell souvenirs.


And we bought this AGAIN from a handsome boy, USD 1.

He gave sylviaorange a take of his picture. The children selling souvenirs here are pretty amazing. They are mutilingual where they could have easily whipped out a series of English, Mandarin, Japanese and even Korean. Surrounding us watching the sunset were the Japanese tourists. The boy was speaking Japanese to them and the moment he turned to us, out come the English. They are too, very good at guessing where you come from.

The golden ball getting ready to sink.

It was a real terrifying moment too as both lucyriver and sylviaorange's camera were low batteries at Pre Rup. Fortunately, we still managed to take a few shots before they went comletely dead.

Lesson learnt - do not shot like it's the end of the world when watching sunrise in Angkor Wat.

Let the picture tell you the beauty of the sunset in Pre Rup.

Today was the fullest day as we had managed to cover what we had not been able to go to yesterday; Srah Srang, Banteay Samre and Pre Rup.

Thanks must be given to our tuk tuk driver for aiding us to cover what we could have missed.

If only we could also watch sunrise in Srah Srang. That would be perfect!!