It all started when Lucyriver met up with Mag in December last year. Somehow the mention of Bario came up as we were having our dayak food. At long last, both of us found a travelling partner who desired to go to this Kelabit Highlands in the northeast of Sarawak. To spice it up, we added Mulu National Park into our itinerary too.
Bario is only accessible by flight or logging road. Lucyriver flight routes are as follows;
Kuching - Miri - Bario - Miri - Mulu - Kuching by Maswings.
Dates: 24 - 28 June 2017
Day ONE
Lucyriver fly to Miri while Mag drives from Bintulu. After lunch we return to the airport to obtain the boarding pass. To board a Twin Otter, one has to be weighed together with carry on luggage. We were waiting eagerly at the departure hall before realising our names were called twice to proceed to the gate. Miri has two daily flights to Bario. We take the second one at 1345.
Half way, we spotted Mulu airport from the left side of the plane. After about 50 minutes as we are flying past some hills and descending, Bario opens up before our eyes. This little town on plateau is surrounded by hills as if sitting on the bottom inside a bowl.
Bario airport
Finally, stepping foot on Bario after contemplating to visit for so many years. Our homestay assigns someone to pick us up from the airport. It is relaxing to see all the greens along the way. The road is a good massager, though.
Our homestay is just around the corner, not too far from the airport. It looks like an abridged version of longhouse with 'bilik' or rooms in a row. We are given room number 12. The lady owner is a retired school principal with her husband who loves to tell jokes and stories. We also learn that from the verandah it is possible for some people to spot the cross on the Prayer Mountain on a clear day.
Above is our first lunch with the rest of the meals eaten with the homestay. Veggies have never tasted so delicious. The sweet pineapple, cooked or eaten raw, is heaven. The hosts eat their meals with us most of the times and it always begins with prayer of thanks.
Our itinerary in the afternoon is to visit the salt spring. Our transport doesn't seem to come on time so we start our walk first with another two girls from Kuching. We are told by our guide, Leann that it is going to take more than an hour on foot to the spring. It is scorching although the sky is cloudy with some water drops felt at some times.
First stop is the rice factory producing Bario rice. A heavy downpour ensues and after visiting a slanting hanging bridge we take shelter at a nearby lodge. It takes almost an hour for the rain to clear. We leave without seeing the giant pitcher plants at the lodge.
It is getting darker by the time the rain clears and we make our way to the pineapple farm. The workers at the farm cut up some pineapple for us to taste. The salt spring is just nearby that majority agree to proceed instead of coming back again the next day. Just then, the rain gets bigger which is going to make the walk more impossible so we return to the homestay.
The homestay has hot shower but Lucyriver take the ice bucket challenge. The water is cold and numbing but refreshing. The rain goes on into the night. There goes the plan of star gazing down the drain.
Only one of the telco companies in Malaysia has connection in Bario.
Not keen on promoting for that company. But the mobile data is quite slow with no connection sometimes.
Day TWO
As it rains through the night, the plan of going to the Prayer Mountain is scraped. We were actually contemplating to go or not as it is not exactly an easy climb. Well, the rain has decided for us.
After breakfast, we walk to the town centre looking for the trail to go up to the lookout point of Bukit Karia. The trail is just behind the shop lots and the community hall as pictured above. As it is Sunday, people go to the church and most of the shops are close. The market is only available on Saturday mornings.
The climb up to the lookout point is relatively easy though we take one or two stops to catch our breath and also to look back at the scenery as we are ascending. We should be the first people to go up today as the track is still fresh and not trampled yet.
The jubilant feeling the moment we see the lookout point.
The point is overlooking the area of the town. We can see the main road leading to the church and school which is to the right. It is not as high as the Prayer Mountain to see the sunrise or sea clouds but the view is superb enough.
We can also spot the plane wreckage which we plan to go after this. The paddy fields are still barren since it is just after the harvest season. Bario would definitely look more enticing with the green or golden swaying paddy.
Mag spots the trail leading on ahead to another small hill but we decide to descend where we come up just now.
Ah, food. Unfortunately the cafe is close. Perhaps we may come for the Laksa Bario tomorrow.
Some of the buildings along the way.
Clockwise from top left; the immigration office, Bario Telecentre and main shops, Internet centre, and the police station.
Coming from the shops, taking the turn on the right not realising that we have missed the other path to the plane wreckage.
The precious soil mud that we collect while walking on the path to see the wreckage which is on the site of the old airport. A homestay is also located just beside the wreckage and they are in the middle of building a few chalet-kind of accommodation.
The plane wreckage during the WW2.
https://aviation-safety.net/database/record.php?id=19640911-0
The paddy field beside the wreckage.
The Primary School, SK Bario
The Secondary School, SMK Bario
Coming out of the wreckage site, we stay on the main road and going forth towards the primary and secondary schools of Bario. Again, we make a wrong turn and have to stop someone on a motorbike to reaffirm the direction of the schools. It is almost noon by the time we reach the secondary school. The church is just opposite the school and the service is still on-going. It seems that almost all the people of Bario is attending the service. Earlier on in the morning, we inform our host that we are skipping the church service as we have not much time to see Bario.
Coming out from the back entrance of the school, the road we walk on leads us to the wrong turn we make earlier on. Guess it is not a wrong turn anyway. There, passing by more and more paddy fields and buffaloes. Some fields are still ploughed by buffaloes instead of machine.
We take a break at a mini mart along the main road and order ABC Special (MYR 6) to quench the thirst. We both agree it needs more milk to taste sweeter.
Some flowers in Bario.
Then, we rush back to our homestay to make it for lunch and discover that more and more guests have arrived. It is a buffet lunch affair now.
In the afternoon, we resume our yesterday's itinerary with Leann. He engages another driver, Anthony to drive us to the salt spring. We walk another 10 or 15 minutes on hilly muddy soil to reach the hut. This hut is a community salt making which means everyone can make salt here by reserving the slots. Leann explains to us the process of salt-making and how the use of firewood or gas would determine the colour of the salt. The salt-maker would have to spend time and sleep there for a few days to watch over the fire. The salt comes in tubes of all sizes wrapped in palm leaves.
The view overlooking the pineapple farm. Gunung Murud is just to the right. We visit the pineapple farm again. And yes, eating the sweet and juicy pineapple again.
Pitcher plants
Monkey's Pot
Then, we return to the lodge to see the pitcher plants and the slanting bridge to take some photos.
River on both sides of the hanging bridge. It is still raining in the night. The last chance of seeing the stars and Milky Way evaporates. And also no mobile data tonight.
Clockwise from top left: Bario airport counter, the Kelabit ladies waiting for their flight, the view on the way back to Miri, and info of trekking trips in Bario at the airport.
The thought of walking to the town centre to eat the Bario Laksa do not materialise after breakfast at the homestay. Instead, we spend the morning relaxing at the homestay buying rice and salt from the host, settling the payments and packing our stuff before going to the airport to take the 1020 flight to Miri.
Some are staying much longer than us to really explore Bario in a relaxing way. Lucyriver feel we have seen the necessary and may have missed out some; the Bario Laksa, the night stars, etc. but it is alright. Mag says it is the sign for coming back the second time. Really?
When we reach Miri, we go out for lunch with Mag's friend before returning to the airport again to get the boarding passes to Mulu and to meet up with Punitha, Mag's colleague, who is joining us to Mulu.
The flight departs at 1345 and we reach Mulu close to 1415. Helen is already outside the arrival hall waiting for us with Peter driving. Our homestay is just a stone's throw away from the airport. Sitting at the porch we can see planes landing and taking off.
Peter drives us to the entrance to Mulu national Park. Lucyriver know we will not be able to make it to any tours this afternoon. So we book some tours for the next day at the park headquarters.
Brochures of guided tours are widely available at there or else one can just ask the staff at the counter for recommendation. It would be good to read up some info of the tours available before going. The brochures are also available online with the prices stated.
http://mulupark.com/
http://mulupark.com/tours-activities/
Some of the activities require guides while there are also a few that one can do unguided such as the walks in the park. Most of the paths are on boardwalk with some off beaten ground path.
We book tours for Deer and Lang caves in the morning as well as Clearwater and Winds Cave in the afternoon. It is unfortunate that the Canopy Skywalk is fully reserved.
After writing our names on the board (for safety reason) we go on the Botanical Trail with the intention to reach the Bat Observatory. The bat watching is also included in the Deer and Lang Caves tour. We are thinking that it might be good to see today in case if it rains today or tomorrow then we have another chance to see.
The view from the observatory platform to catch the bat exodus. There is a few minutes of light raindrops.
At 1745 the bats come out intermittently. It is a sight to behold.
Our homestay is a dormitory style with many bathrooms. There are two other guests staying in the room. Breakfast is included in the stay. The generator is kept on the whole night till morning. Data mobile is totally off so we hit the sack after dinner.
Day FOUR
It's Show Caves Day!
Wake up to this view taken at the backyard of the homestay.
After breakfast we walk to the park, once again crossing the hanging bridge at the entrance. Lucyriver inquire again if there are any free slots for the Canopy Walk. Nope. So we obediently wait for our morning tour while checking out the Discovery Centre inside the park office.
The assembly point for every tour is in front of the office. After the tour guide confirms everyone's arrival we proceed to the jetty which is just behind the office. Remember the hanging bridge that we cross to come in here? That's the river we are going to cruise to get to the caves.
After putting on the life jacket we jumped into the long boat and off we go. The Melinau river is calm in the morning and the water is rather clear with the rocks at the bottom visible.
On the way we stop at a Penan settelement called Batu Bungan. There is a market selling handicraft and souvenirs. Basically all the stalls are selling the same stuff. However, there are interesting info to read on the boards at the entrance to the market about the Penans.
Mulu crocodiles. Not that we meet any.
Cruising the Melinau River
We dock at the jetty leading to the stairs to the Wind Cave the left and Clearwater on the right. Our guide, Anthony explains to us the formation of the stalactite the stalagmite in the cave. We are not supposed to touch them as the contamination from our hand will damage and change their colours. We are also to keep to the pathway and not to venture away. A torchlight would be handy but it is not really that dark in the cave as there are some strategically places lights along the way. There are lots of stairs to walk up dan down. At one narrow passage we are able to feel the wind.
A skylight in the cave.
After coming out of the cave, we go to the other side of the picnic area and rest for a while before walking up the almost vertical 200 plus steps of stairs to the entrance of Clearwater. We are forced to stop at least twice to catch our breath before reaching the top.
Some plants or leaves growing on the rocks on the ceiling of the cave. Anthony has told us its name but Lucyriver just can't remember, something ending with -dula. Some sort of medicinal plant.
The stairs are leading down to the bottom of the cave to see the water flowing beneath. Not many photos are taken as the phone camera just do not work well in the dark. We can hear the sound of water flowing and indeed the water is clear when Anthony shines light on it.
Down to see the clear water.
Then, we come out using the same route but this time it is all walking up and up.
Another skylight in the cave.
Local visitors pay MYR 15 for the park's entrance fee. They give us a wrist band which we have to keep on all the time in the park. We get the yellow. There are other colours as well.
The sweet and sour fish (MYR 12) at one of the cafe outside the park. It seems that food is not really that expensive in Mulu considering the accessibility to the park.
After lunch we return to the park office for the afternoon tour to Deer and Lang Caves. Mag asks again about the Canopy Walk, still no luck. So here we go again, walking the same path we have taken the day before, all the way to the bat observatory. Along the way, Sammy, our guide points our some insects to us. Look at that stick insect!
This is the profile of Abraham Lincoln in the Deer cave. It is also the home of the swiflets and many species of bats. At some parts of the caves it is covered with heaps of guano. The smell is not as strong as expected.
The massive chamber in the cave.
At one end, it opens out to the Garden of Eden, which is another tour.
Mulu Laksa (MYR 10)
We skip the bat watching and walk back to the office. More than halfway the rain starts to come down. We are soaked to skin even though walking under the canopy. We take cover at one of the cafe while having our dinner before deciding to just walk back to the homestay as the rain just does not seem to cease any sooner.
The road leading to the junction on the left to the park entrance.
Our homestay is managed by a couple named Helen and Peter. They pick us and up and drive us to the airport although it is close by.
Looking towards the airport from our homestay.
Although we do not get to do the Canopy Walk we manage to see the caves as intended. To climb to see the Pinnacles is another story, it is not on our mind from the beginning. But now, it seems a bit tempting.
Lunch cooked by Helen before departing. It's funny how a simple meal like this can be so mouth-watering. Guess it is the factors of environment and the companions that one has at the moment.
Half way, we spotted Mulu airport from the left side of the plane. After about 50 minutes as we are flying past some hills and descending, Bario opens up before our eyes. This little town on plateau is surrounded by hills as if sitting on the bottom inside a bowl.
