Wednesday, December 14, 2011

Luang Prabang, Laos

Laos Itinerary

Day 1 - Saturday, 3rd December 2011
Vientiane - Luang Prabang
Day 2 - Sunday, 4th December 2011
Luang Prabang
Day 3 - Monday, 5th December 2011
Luang Prabang
Day 4 - Tuesday, 6th December 2011
Luang Prabang - Vang Vieng
Day 5 - Wednesday, 7th December 2011
Vang Vieng
Day 6 - Thursday, 8th December 2011
Vang Vieng - Vientiane
Day 7 - Friday, 9th December 2011
Vientiane
Day 8 - Saturday, 10th December 2011
Vientiane

Full credit must be given to Sylviaorange for doing the research and planning for this backpacking trip. She got the itinerary planned out and maps of the three major towns we were to cover printed out. Bet the guesthouse wasn't too happy that we got our own map. This trip is different because we did not book any accommodation in advance. Sylviaorange said it's going to be a slow and easy relaxing trip.
The moment we landed in Vientiane in late afternoon, we performed magic turning USD into Kips, the local currency. It is worth to exchange at the airport or in Vientiane as we found out later that the currency rate is lower in Luang Prabang and lower still in Vang Vieng. 1USD would be approximately 8000 kips. We got 7991 at the airport when we arrived and it went up a bit to 7995 when we were to depart.

We managed to get a tuk tuk after walking out form the airport to the main road. We crossed the road when actually we could just wait at the roadside of where we were as the direction to the Northern Bus Station is to the right the moment we walked through the arch of the airport.

Luckily, a tuk tuk driver from the other side of the road spotted us and signalled for us to wait for him as he turned around. This is where the international language came to use, no, it's not English but sign and body language. Lucyriver guess we really met a real local. With the hands imitating holding and turning a wheel and the words, Luang Prabang, we got ourselves hopped in the tuk tuk. Sylviaorange was still wondering if the driver would send us instead all the way to Luang Prabang. Nay, impossible.

The tuk tuk in Laos is mostly converted mini lorry or sometimes it is connected to a motorcycle.
We knew the tuk tuk driver would not be sending us to Luang Phrabang the moment we saw the Northern Bus Station. It was still very quiet at the station as we bought our night bus ticket to Luang Prabang at 8.00 p.m.. It is a journey of about 12 hours which Sylviaorange said bitter first, sweet later.
 The price, time and destination of buses are embossed on the glass of the ticket counter.
The herds of wooden elephant at the entrance of the bus station.
It was still pretty early and we had about two hours to kill before boarding the bus. The beef noodle soup that we ordered at the station came with a small basket of lime, herbs and lettuce and a plate of bean sprouts. The locals would pluck just the leaves of the herbs and eaten raw or thrown into the noodle soup. Some would also add hot chilli till the whole bowl of soup is red.
The vermicelli was a bit tough though.
Our supposed to be VIP bus was quite good actually until we witnessed the so- called-VIP seats. Besides the designated seats, extra plastic stools chairs would be brought up to be placed at the aisle when necessary. When there is no more space to put chairs, one would just sit at the stairs of the bus. Imagine that, 12-hour journey plus the road condition, even Hercules would have dropped dead.

The bus ticket also included a supper dinner and a bottle of mineral water. We were also given wet tissue and a vomit plastic bag. There were interval stops at the roadside for the passengers to go pee pee. It was an open toilet where one just go to a spot of one's liking and do his or her business.

It was 2.30 a.m. when we stopped at an eatery with real toilets. The temperature was so cold that Sylviaorange and Lucyriver barely could hold the spoon to the mouth to drink the noodle soup again as we were shaking so badly. Monkey on the other hand was like not feeling any cold.

Throughout the journey, we were like sleeping, waking up and then sleeping and waking up again. At the last half of the road, it was pretty winding as we went around the hill. When the morning came, the outside scenery was beautiful as we were riding along the edges of the hills blanketed by the morning sea of clouds.

It was 9.30 am by the time we arrive at the Luang Prabang bus station. Once again we hopped onto a tuk tuk after buying bus tickets to Vang Vieng which we would go to next. Sylviaorange had a list of guesthouses that we could stay. We went to Muong Lao guesthouse which is just in front of a wat. Forgot the name, Wat Apom or what. We took a triple room with an attached bathroom.

The staff of the guesthouse, who looks at bit like Lee Byung-hun, told us that it was a good sunny day to go to Kuang Si Waterfall. We heeded the advice and secured a tuk tuk through him. Even suggested we pay extra for the driver to stop us at a market but we did not buy it.
Along the way, there were vendors parading their goods at the roadside. The temperature was chilly with cool wind but warmth could be felt once stepped into the sunshine.
Our driver stopping to buy or pay for something, not sure.
There were numerous stalls at the roadside selling drinks especially the countless fruit shake that we had had throughout the trip in Laos. Just name the fruit, Lucyriver think we had probably tried all the fruits available, mango, apple, orange, watermelon, coconut, pineapple, lime, mixed fruits and even Oreo.
The presumably traffic police officers on duty in beige uniform compared to the police in darker green.
The ever so significant low tables and little stools at eateries, fewer compared to in Vietnam.
Notice that there are rules in tuk tuk too.
The river view along the way.
The harvested paddy fields all around were the only thing that welcoming us to Laos in December. Sylviaorange said if we want to see green paddy field, then we should be here in August and September but shall need to trade in the cool temperature which something Lucyriver appreciate much.
The Kwang Si Waterfall requires entrance fee of 20000 kips. We passed by a sun bear centre on the route to the waterfall. The first sight of the bluish green or dark turqoise water amazed us.
The water cascaded in segments as it flowed to the lower land.  As we went up, we took in the scenery and photos too.
The shadows of the three of us on the bridge reflected on the water.
Higher up, we saw a few Tarzans swinging by the rope.
The wonderful cascading waterfall near an eatery.
The final down falling waterfall where we saw some climbing up to the top. We almost made it, more than half way, if not for the fear of fatigue and the climb may be higher than what we gauged.
The Luang Prabang National Museum across the road of the Phousi Hill. We did not went in presuming entrance fee nothing is interesting.
Back from the waterfall, the tuk tuk driver dropped us at the Phousi Hill to see sunset. It was still rather early so we took our time slowly to ascend the 328 steps with entrance fee. Puffing and puffing, sorry girls, lack of stamina.

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